Himalayan adventure: Lobuche Peak climbing

Lobuche Peak is one of those great above 6000 meters peak that gets you inside the real mountaineering world with relatively short mountaineering training.

If you are looking for a Himalayan adventure that includes high altitude mountaineering experience with technical climbing and view to Everest, Nature crafted this mountain for you.

This is unlike the known Mera Peak peak, which can be climbed just by walking. This mountain is much more demanding and you should get the proper training before the summit attempt.

As always, when it comes not just to trekking and skills are required, you better get the right guidance and training from a certified guide.

Lobuche Peak is 6119 meters high. In order to ascend and descend you will need to work with ascender tool, ice ax, ice-screws,  snow rappelling and belaying while using different rope knots.

The climb over Lobuche is within the same range of height like the more popular Islan peak.  But, there are some differences. Although Lobuche peak is a bit more technical, it is safer. Island peak has snow crevasses due to snow conditions and global warming.

The route and preparations for climbing

Like all other treks and climbs in the Everest region, the starting point is the airport and village of Lukla. From this point, you will slowly climb up the hills and mountains. Passing the village of Namche Bazaar towards Lobuche guest houses point. Depends on your route, going straight to Lobuche can take around 6~7 walking days including acclimatization days in Namche Bazaar and Dingboche. other routes can take you through Gokyo lakes and Chola pass so the trek time extended.

acclimatization days are a crucial factor to be ready to the lack of oxygen in the air. Without proper acclimatization, a climber will put himself into danger and risk of life. Make sure you are self-aware to your body.

Depends on the level of confidence you would like to gain for a successful summit, a climber should choose the right guide and agency.

Some of the agencies and guides will offer minimum training so the chances for a successful climb are lower. Some will offer better training so the level of independence during the climb is higher and climb is safer and chances for the successful summit are better. Make sure you carefully check and confirm your itinerary.

 

The climb

Our route to the peak itself starts from Lobuche village at the height of 4940 meters. The goal is to reach the high camp point in the evening time. Some itineraries stop in the lower camp, but if you don’t plan to have an intermediate stop at high camp, it makes your climbing day very long and starting the climb in the middle of the night.

During the climb to the high camp, you can also choose between rock climb with the assistance of fixed rope or to bypass in a bit longer route. It really depends on your acclimatization. If you have enough breathing or you feel exhausted and prefer the walk. The high camp is just minutes from the snow starting point, still on the rocky part and the location is just beautiful.

Having the Lobuche peak in front of you and almost a 360 degrees view of all mountains and valleys, including Everest.

 

 

The summit

Waking up with the Sunrize, fast muesli meal, clothing, climbing boots, climbing gear. After a few minutes walk, we are on the ice. Putting on the snow crampons and starting a careful climb.

After a short distance, we reach the fixed rope point to which we hook the ascender as our safety climbing tool. One hand holds the ice ax and the other hand over the ascender. boots hit the snow and crampons nailed the legs to the snow.

After a few hours of climbing and hard breath, we catch another team that started climb earlier in the morning from the lower camp. We assist each other with the rope work and securing each other.

The other couple actually didn’t feel confident and secured with their guide which turned out to be not certified and our guide actually jumped in to give the proper assistance till the summit.  The feeling in the summit is epic. the view is just amazing. Everest in front of you and the rest of the panoramic view is so tranquil and beautiful.

The way down

Reaching the summit is less than half of the effort, the way down is actually not less demanding and here you can’t use the fixed rope as. The technique for the way down is belaying with own rope and securing with ice screws. Part after part after part.

Assisting each other with the rope and ice screws we slowly and safely able to successfully finish the climb and going back to the camp place.

The journey is such an amazing experience, recommended to any mountains avid.

From here you will have a long descending route all the way to the Lobuche guest house. On your way to your next amazing destination.

 

Have any questions regarding climbing in Nepal or general climbing question? write to us.

 

 

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